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Being that I have half of the enemies to a gun.

My Para 1911 has rust on it. Mostly inside the magwell where the paint has worn off. The finish on the rest of the pistol is starting to wear in places, and the thing on the back that is designed to rip off large chunks of your palm while racking the slide (and can ostensibly serve as the 'rear sight' from time to time) has also gotten a little rust on it as well.

Dangit.

I gotta burn through 150 rounds or so of .45 ACP since it's a bit on the hot side for competition. Don't know when I'm going to be able to do that though since the Mrs. managed to catch my cold so I'll be doubly busy this week and then will be pretty much swamped with soccer and plays over the weekend. So it's not like I'd be able to make this months shoot as it is.

So, what's your favorite rust removal technique? I have a sharp stick to poke the 'steel wool' commenters, so be wary.

posted @ 4/27/2010 9:56:25 AM

Comments

steve says:

on 4/27/2010 10:33:48 AM

A medium weight oil and a copper penny. Slosh on the oil and rub gently with the edge of the penny. Take your time.

HTH

McThag says:

on 4/27/2010 10:42:17 AM

Angle grinder! Takes that rust right off! It will also smooth that rear sight right down too.

How bad is the rust. For mild surface rust I have just been rubbing some oil on it with a finger. I have been fortunate to have avoided more serious rust.

Robb Allen says:

on 4/27/2010 10:43:43 AM

McThag, it is VERY superficial, which is good. I think rubbing with oil should take most of it out.

Wai says:

on 4/27/2010 10:54:41 AM

I used to be able to get rust converter, by Duplo, at the automotive store. Basically, it deoxidizes the rust and turns it black. You sand that down smooth.

Weer'd Beard says:

on 4/27/2010 11:09:58 AM

Buy a 1911 from a reputable maker.

Seriously the Blogger summer-camp has nothing but solidified my thoughts that you can do a lot better than buying para. Also the fact the gun rags that get comped guns and take advertising monies have a hard time avoiding the painted-ordinance finish issues.

That being said, WD-40 and scotch bright pads will give you some luck with surface rust. Refinishing a gun isn't a terribly expensive process which should stop this from happening again.

Still won't fix that LDA problem your gun has.

Colt, Springfield, S&W, Sig, Hi-Standard, Taurus, STI, ect ect ect ect, can also solve your problem. Just keep your eyes on the used racks.

DJ says:

on 4/27/2010 11:39:22 AM

I suggest using Hoppe's #9 and a Chore Girl (or whatever kind of plastic dish scrubber whatsit you can find). Been there, done that.

Some years ago, a neighbor in New Mexico came to me for help. He had been gone for a week and came home to find the water line to his water heater had spring a leak. The water heater closet had been sprayed thoroughly enough that some repairs to the walls were required.

You guessed it: He had two guns stored in that closet, a pump shotgun and a lever-action .22 rifle. They were a mess, looking like they'd been bead-blasted with rust nodules. Hoppe's #9 cleaned off the rust beautifully, but there was nothing to be done for the pitting the rust produced. Oddly enough, the bores were sound and the innards, which were nicely oiled, were not damaged.

There might be better methods, but this one works.

Stuart the Viking says:

on 4/27/2010 11:40:16 AM

I have a Para Expert and while I haven't noticed any rust (yet) I was AMAZED at how quick the parakote finish started to wear off. I have been planning some updates to this pistol which will necessitate a refinish anyway so I'm not as conserned as I could be, but as it is my first 1911 I was a little bummered by it (I am sentimental and tend to keep tings). I have a few guns that I have had for years (one being my daily cc piece) that doesn't show the finish wear that the para showed 2 weeks after I bought it new.

s

Miguel says:

on 4/27/2010 11:57:44 AM

Iosso Gunbrite does wonders and is too not aggresive on the rest of the finish. You can apply with a cloth and get results.
http://www.iosso.com/MivaStore/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=A&Product_Code=00011&Category_Code=GunCleaning

Freiheit says:

on 4/27/2010 12:26:24 PM

Pics? How about a blog post on the process?

IMO start with a good tear down and cleaning. Take EVERYTHING apart and check for rust or other uglies. You'll be pissed if you fix one thing then find something else later.

Peter says:

on 4/27/2010 1:41:25 PM

Send it to me.

You will never, ever see rust on that gun again.

I guarantee it.

:)

pdb says:

on 4/27/2010 2:09:53 PM

I've removed some truly scary crusties with a 3M Scotchbrite pad and Hoppes #9. Be sure to change spots on the pad often so you're not rubbing rust particles all over your gun.

Also, reakin' Taurus' QC is superior to Para?? WTF?

Look, if it's made of steel, it'll rust. It doesn't matter what coating or treatment you put on it, eventually it'll oxidize. Even stainless (it's called stainLESS, not stainNEVER) if you work at it enough. Bluing sucks, park and paint is somewhat better, plating is pretty good until the plating flakes off, Tennifer and Ionbond are pretty damn good, but even those will eventually fail.

Being in a hot, humid environment you're already behind the curve. If you carry it a lot, you're also sweating on it, especially if you carry it in leather. Kydex helps some, but moisture can get trapped in there too. Cleaning and drying the inside of your holster is important. Don't store the gun in a soft or foam case, either.

There's no substitute for keeping on top of your gun, but even then, rust spots aren't a personal failing. It's just chemistry. :)

DJ says:

on 4/27/2010 7:39:02 PM

Ah, go ahead and let it rust, Robb. You don't need it anyway. All you need is a Ruger LCP with a Crimson Trace laser sight.

Don't think so? Well, read this:

http://newsok.com/texas-gov.-shoots-kills-wily-coyote-during-jog/article/feed/153800?custom_click=pod_headline_usnational-news

ExurbanKevin says:

on 4/27/2010 8:28:02 PM

What is this "rust" you speak of? Is this like "snow" or "rain", i.e. one of those things that happens in states that aren't Arizona? :)

slim says:

on 4/27/2010 10:19:39 PM

You might try Flitz - a metal polishing compound that is safe for bluing. It does POLISH off some bluing, but it doesn't chemically remove the bluing.

I did a rifle with it that had been somebody's truck gun (rust measles), and it turned out well. The blue was lighter around the areas that I polished, but it did remove the rust. It was nothing like a new gun, but it was pleasing to my eyes. I traded it off for something or other.

Pop N Fresh says:

on 4/27/2010 11:46:05 PM

since 1000 grit s.w. and a little oil is out maybe a wire brush??? Quick rub on the "Bench Grinder of Love"?? Maybe a nice chrome job is in your future?

Sarah says:

on 4/28/2010 1:50:44 PM

Err...I dropped off my carry gun at the gunsmith's for rust removal (surface rust on my Mil Pro's mag catch) because I needed him to do a thorough cleaning on it anyway.

But, hey, that's just my preferred method, seeing as I've looked at the exploded-view diagram in my owner's manual and said, "Oh, yeah, trying that would end SO well."

Jay G. says:

on 4/28/2010 2:58:55 PM

I have no idea what your beef is with steel wool, Robb.

I've had good results with it...

Jay G. says:

on 4/28/2010 3:00:19 PM

Okay, that didn't work... Link is here: http://stuckinmassachusetts.blogspot.com/2009/08/feelin-rusty.html

Comments have been closed on this topic.